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DAY 4: Arequipa, Peru, July 3, 2025

DAY 4: Arequipa, Peru, July 3, 2025

On our last day in Arequipa, we walked back toward the historical center to finish exploring the exhibitions we’d started earlier in the week. Just before reaching the plaza, we spotted Librería Fabla Salvaje, a small independent bookstore on Calle Jerusalén. Knox talked with the staff and picked up several rare Spanish-language books they recommended. The shop is focused on promoting literature from southern Peru and supports independent publishing through events, workshops, and local partnerships.

We continued to Galería de Arte – Centro Cultural UNSA, the gallery we had visited briefly at night. This time, seeing it in daylight gave us a chance to appreciate the work more fully. The museum features regional and contemporary pieces, all thoughtfully arranged in a stunningly beautiful, quiet space.

From there, we walked to Fundo El Fierro, a historic artisan market housed in a former colonial estate. Run by the Asociación de Artesanos Productores Fundo El Fierro, the market supports over 60 artisans from across Peru. Their mission is to preserve traditional crafts, handwoven textiles, alpaca wool garments, silver jewelry, and a few ceramics while providing economic opportunities for local makers. We didn’t find anything to take home, but it was worth the visit to see the craftsmanship and chat with the vendors.

Dinner was at Zig Zag, located in a restored colonial building with high sillar stone ceilings and a metal spiral staircase attributed to Eiffel. My trout arrived seared on hot volcanic stone, and although Knox went for a different dish, we both were handed the restaurant’s signature bibs, apparently the tradition and rather silly, but practical in the end. We lucked into the only upstairs window seat, where we watched the evening foot traffic below. By the end of the meal, the rush of folks heading home had slowed to just a few quiet stragglers. The restaurant is top-notch—excellent service, standout food and wine, and a well-balanced menu blending European and Peruvian flavors.

Arequipa isn’t just a great city to visit. There’s a lot to explore beyond the center, and we’re already thinking about coming back for a longer stay. The coast is just 90 minutes away, with beaches like Playa Catarindo near Mollendo offering a change of pace. Inland, there’s Colca Canyon for trekking and condor spotting, the Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve for wildlife and salt flats, and the Sillar Route with its active quarries and canyon walls carved from volcanic stone. Plenty of reasons to return.

Day 4 photos HERE.

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DAY 3: Arequipa, Peru, July 2, 2025

Uncategorized / Courtenay Katherine

DAY 3: Arequipa, Peru, July 2, 2025

We decided to meet up with our guide again, this time to focus on the city itself rather than heading out to the surrounding sites. Plaza de Armas has been the heart of Arequipa since the 1540s, designed in the classic colonial grid layout. It remains lively today, with broad stone walkways, manicured gardens, and three arcaded sides enclosing the square. The Cathedral dominates the entire north end—just as striking by day as it is at night. In the sunlight, its white sillar stone looks crisp and pristine, but after dark, it glows with a soft pink hue. Unfortunately, we learned that seeing the inside of the cathedral is not possible, as it is closed to the public.

At the center of the plaza is a bronze fountain topped by a small figure called the “Tuturutu.” According to legend, he was a messenger left behind by the Inca to watch over a tambo and alert others to news using a horn; the name comes from the sound it made: tuturutúúú. Eventually, he was said to have frozen in place, horn in hand, facing the sun. But our guide offered another more modern version: the horn was used not for royal messages but to warn townspeople of pickpockets, minstrels, or other street action — a kind of early public service announcement from the plaza.

We crossed to the nearby Templo La Compañía de Jesús. The entire façade is densely covered with carved stone — vines, birds, angels —every inch used. Inside is quieter, with side altars along the walls and a large gold altar at the front. Our guide said the Jesuit church dates to the late 1500s but had been rebuilt after a major earthquake in 1687 and parts of it again restored after subsequent earthquakes.

The most striking part was the Capilla de San Ignacio, a side chapel with a painted dome and walls covered in bright, tropical murals picturing parrots, palm trees, monkeys…odd for a religious setting. The paintings are over 300 years old, have never been restored and are likely connected to Jesuit missions in the rainforest. Truly incredible.

From the historic center, we walked about ten minutes to reach Mercado San Camilo, Arequipa’s main market. The streets on the way were packed with cars bumper to bumper and vendors covering the sidewalks.

The market covers at least three or four city blocks. It is much like other markets we have visited in South America, but much bigger. Crowds moved through relatively wide aisles while vendors shouted prices and advertised their wares. There were stalls for corn, citrus, every sort of vegetable imaginable, stacks of corn, dried beans, coca leaves, dried medicinal herbs, mounds of freshly baked bread, cheeses, olives, etc. Our guide explained some of the regional produce, especially the unfamiliar varieties of potatoes and fruit, many of them grown in the surrounding valleys. Near the food stalls, rows of women sat shoulder to shoulder at small counters eating breakfast. Our guide said it’s common for women to come early to shop, then stay and catch up with friends over a meal.

The fish section was remarkable with long rows of counters stacked with large fish like corvina, mero, and bonito, all laid out on ice or being gutted on the spot. Also, our guide pointed out a big pile of what he said was caviar, known as Cau Cau, which is definitely fish eggs and something resembling caviar, though not the luxury sturgeon kind. Comng from Mendoza, where fresh fish isn’t common, the sheer volume and size of the fish on display was striking.

Upstairs in the textile section, it was quiet. A handful of vendors sat among stacked stalls of textiles and alpaca goods. From that upper level, we had a clear view of the floor below. From there, we could look down on the main floor and see just how large the market actually is.

Our guide then led us to explore several tambos, centuries-old communal buildings originally designed to house merchants, travelers, and their goods. These structures, dating back as far as the 17th and 18th centuries, are built from sillar, and today, many have been repurposed into regular apartments. One standout in our visit was Tambo de Bronce. Once a hub for commerce and later a military barracks during the War of the Pacific, it was restored after the 2001 earthquake and now serves as a cultural venue. With its stone façade, vaulted ceilings, and graceful arches, it stands as a clear example of Arequipa’s historic, enduring architecture.

Next, we headed to Museo Santuarios Andinos, home to Juanita, the frozen Inca maiden sacrificed over 500 years ago, but the wait for a tour (required) was too long, so we decided to save it for another day.

On the way back to the car, our guide stopped and invited us to check out a beautiful leather shop, Pedro P. Díaz Cueros, where we each picked out a classic wallet. Dating back to 1923, the shop specializes in high-quality leather goods. Really fine craftmanship. It was hard to choose!

We wanted to see some of the nicer neighborhoods in Arequipa because by this point, given the amazing weather, the people we had met, and the vibe of the city in general, we began seriously thinking this might be a perfect place to spend winters in the future. Our guide happily gave us a tour of two sections of the city, both within walking distance of the historic district: Cayma and Yanahuara.

We drove out of the center maybe ten minutes before hitting some traffic on the main commercial street of Yanahuara, quite lovely with a median full of pine trees and planted pots. We had been here the day before to see the city from the famous overlook. When you turn off the main drag into some of the quieter surrounding streets, you find beautiful townhouses and apartments with some houses sprinkled in, plus flower-filled balconies and quiet courtyards, with a blend of colonial architecture and modern style. Elegant, walkable, and full of character.

Cayma felt like a peaceful retreat, just outside the city center and close to the chacras and open farmland. We drove through quiet, residential neighborhoods higher up, with views of the city and a strong family-oriented vibe. Our guide lives there, and it’s easy to see why. Cayma offers a quiet, family-friendly atmosphere with lots of fresh air, wide streets, and scenic views, all while staying close enough to the city for convenience. You can walk to the historic center from there, but having a car would be more practical.

Our guide dropped us in the center mid-afternoon, where we wandered a bit, found a rooftop spot for a lovely late-day meal before heading back to the hotel.

Day 3 photos HERE.

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Day 2: Arequipa, Peru, July 1, 2025

Uncategorized / Courtenay Katherine

DAY 2: Arequipa, Peru, July 1, 2025

We began the day at Mirador de Carmen Alto with our guide. From the viewpoint, you can see how the city and valley fit together—the green terraces of the Chilina Valley below, still farmed after centuries, with the Río Chili running through them. Off in the distance, three volcanoes line the horizon: Chachani, the tallest at 19,872 feet, sits to the west and is often snow-capped. Misti, in the center, rises to 19,101 feet with its perfect cone and long history of eruptions. And Pichu Pichu, at 18,583 feet, stretches out like a man lying on his back with arms folded; locals point it out like an old friend. All three are considered sacred in the Andean tradition, honored as apus, or protective spirits.

Next, we headed to Mirador de Yanahuara in the Yanahuara district, a short drive from the historic center. It’s an expansive spot that offers sweeping views of the city and volcanoes through sillar stone arches. The area, along with nearby Cayma, has tree-lined residential streets and bustling commercial pockets.

In Quechua, “yana” means black, and “wara” means undergarment or loincloth. So this charming colonial district translates quite literally as “black underwear.” Historians trace the name to the Yanahuara people, Inca-era settlers relocated to the area, possibly referencing the color of their garments. One version of the story says that when women crossed the Río Chili, the dark volcanic silt stained their white undergarments, leaving them “yana wara.” Ha, ha!

The third viewpoint of the day was Mirador de Sachaca, where we climbed the five-story tower (it feels taller) for open views in every direction. From the top, the city stretches across the valley: green fields, scattered buildings, and the same three volcanoes in the distance, a little hazier now.

Arequipa’s nickname, El León del Sur, “The Lion of the South,” comes from its long history of doing things its own way, as our guide put it. In 1883, during the War of the Pacific when Lima was occupied, Arequipa became Peru’s provisional capital and even issued its own passports. People still joke about the “República Independiente de Arequipa,” and the pride locals have in their city is unmistakable. We saw it in everyone we met.

Next was Puente de Fierro, the 19th-century railway bridge that locals still like to claim was designed by Eiffel (it wasn’t, but the myth sticks). Built in 1871 as part of the line connecting Arequipa to Puno, it was engineered in the U.S. with then-cutting-edge iron trusses. It’s mostly pedestrian now. We walked across and looked down at the valley, where farmland stretches out below. Green chacras, small agricultural plots, still thrive in the middle of the sprawling city, with the Río Chili winding through it all, framed by the volcanoes above. (Same chacras, same meaning, as in our town’s name, Chacras de Coria.)

Mundo Alpaca was our last stop of the day. Envisioned by Frank W. Michell, a pioneer in Peru’s alpaca industry and the founder of Michell & Cia, the textile company behind the initiative, the Mundo Alpaca cultural center in Arequipa was established in 2005, building on Michell & Cia’s legacy that dates back to 1947, when the company opened Peru’s first alpaca combing and spinning plant.

I was skeptical because we’ve seen plenty of these displays across the Andes, but this one stood out. The layout is thoughtful, and the animals seem well cared for. The fiber sorting and weaving demos were familiar, but the museum surprised us: clear, detailed, and professionally done. It walks you through alpaca wool production, from raw fleece to finished yarn, with strong visual explanations. The unmistakable smell of alpaca wool hits you as soon as you walk in—warm, slightly earthy, and hanging in the air. The garments were exceptional, easily the best we’ve come across. I bought a sweater; Knox picked out some socks. Most of the company’s output is exported as yarn, but the boutique had some beautiful, finished pieces. Our guide finally clarified baby alpaca: it’s the very first shearing of a young alpaca, done only once, around age four.

After a late lunch of ceviche at the hotel (what else?) and a nap, we headed down the hill to the historic center in time for our reservation at Chicha to celebrate my birthday (we’d celebrated Knox’s in Lima the week before). With a bit of extra time, we stopped at Galería de Arte – Centro Cultural UNSA, tucked behind the Santa Catalina Monastery on a quiet stretch of Calle Ugarte. We didn’t expect much, just a quick pass-through, but the space opened into something more nuanced. It holds a rotating collection of contemporary Peruvian art, thoughtfully curated: bold pieces set in colonial rooms of white sillar, with high ceilings, arched doorways, and a soft-lit central courtyard. The galleries are compact but well arranged. Most works were contemporary: acrylics exploring light and color, along with striking oils and watercolors. We didn’t have time to see everything, so planned to return the next day and take our time.

Chicha por Gaston Acurio is a quiet space, low-lit, unassuming, and tucked into a restored building that doesn’t try too hard. We went with the fixed menu and wine pairings, which felt right for the occasion. It was my birthday (we’d celebrated Knox’s the week before in Lima), and the staff marked it with a song—first in English, then in Spanish. Not a surprise, but appreciated.

Two dishes stood out, both firsts for me. The cuy came shredded and seasoned, wrapped in a soft corn tortilla with a mild pepper sauce. (Cuy are essentially wild guinea pigs, considered a delicacy in Peru and now farmed for eating. We used to have tons of them in our yard at home until the dog drove them out.) The llama carpaccio was sliced thin and paired with something sharp, maybe citrus or mustard, that kept it from feeling heavy. The wines were from Argentina, Chile, and Peru, with an excellent Italian Sangiovese to finish.

After a long day, we took an Uber back to the hotel. We’d been debating whether to spend our last day on a trek outside the city but decided there was still more of Arequipa we wanted to explore. We figured the farther-afar spots like Colca Canyon, and the Salinas Salt Flats, could wait for another trip.

DAY 2 Photos HERE.

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Day 1: Arequipa, Peru, June 30, 2025

Uncategorized / Courtenay Katherine

Arequipa, Peru, June 30, 2025

We arrived in Arequipa mid-afternoon and the view from the air revealed the desert terrain and enormous volcanoes around the city. It was larger than we expected, with around 1.8 million people and a sprawling layout with whole neighborhoods perched in the shadows of the three major volcanoes — Chachani, Misti, and Pichu Pichu.

The Wyndham Costa del Sol, Arequipa is located in the quiet, green Selva Alegre neighborhood, about a 15-minute walk from the city’s historic center. The property is surrounded by spacious, well-kept gardens, where three alpacas graze. Juanita, a 150-year-old tortoise and long-time resident of the grounds, has been part of the landscape longer than the hotel itself.

After a nap, we headed down into the historical district to find a place for dinner. Walking the streets is a completely different experience than most other South American cities we have visited. It has a European feel—narrow, hilly and sometimes winding, walkable, and full of historic architecture. We wound down the lively streets filled with venders and folks out shopping and dining, and came to the Plaza de Armas. The square is large, active, and felt very safe, with many people out enjoying the evening. Arequipa’s main square dates back to 1540 during the Spanish colonial period. Following a major earthquake in 1582, the city was largely rebuilt using sillar stone.

Sillar, the material that gives Arequipa its nickname, “La Ciudad Blanca” (The White City), is a type of white volcanic stone formed over two million years ago from eruptions from the volcanoes that left behind thick layers of compacted volcanic ash and rock, which eventually hardened into the porous, lightweight stone. While most commonly white, sillar can also appear in pink, gray, or yellow tones depending on its mineral content. Most of the buildings in Arequipa are white, but there are some stunning examples of the pink stone also. The Spaniards who built most of the old city were from Seville, Spain. Apparently, the stones reminded them of home, so they stayed.

The cathedral, completed in 1656, is white, sillar, and at night, the building is lit, bathing the remarkable stone walls and arches in a warm glow. After a stroll, we found a rooftop restaurant with decent food, mediocre wine and a lovely atmosphere. The highlight was Knox’s observation of the waxing moon, tipped on its back, as it should be so close to the equator. Our walk back to the hotel —about 30 minutes uphill— was tougher than the decent. We noticed the altitude for sure!

Day 1 Photos HERE.

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