Courtenay Katherine

San Salvador de Jujuy to Huacalera

We decided to go to Jujuy, the northern-most province in Argentina, partly to get out of the cold in Mendoza, but also because there is now a non-stop flight (1 and a half hours) on Tuesdays between Mendoza and Jujuy. Everything was on time, and renting the 4×4 we reserved was a breeze. The Jujuy airport is only two years old and lovely—small, clean, and very efficient. 

We left the airport in the capital, San Salvador de Jujuy, around 1:45 pm, heading up in altitude. At first, it reminded me of Vermont a little bit because of the rolling, very green hills, until I realized there were no evergreens, only jungle-like vegetation. In this part of Jujuy, we were north of Salta on the eastern edge of the province, much of which is jungle. The climb was steep and we noticed the change in altitude quickly. The terrain changed from green to massive green/brown mountains, but still appeared as rolling hills with beautiful coloring from pinks to yellow to greys. After an hour or so we began seeing the enormous castle-like, sphere-shaped, spiky mountainous structures formed by wind and water erosion that we’ve seen in Salta before, but these were brown rock instead of white.

Continuing to climb in altitude on a winding, mostly two-lane highway, there was virtually no traffic.  We passed through the mountain town of Tilcara with about 14 minutes more to our hotel (Huacalera Hotel), a large, sprawling structure along the highway in a small village in between the larger communities of Tilcara and Huamahuaca. We found the room well appointed, and the restaurant featured great local cuisine.

We met a lovely couple from Rosario, Argentina who told us about the area in some detail, as they frequently come to hike. They told us the indigenous populations were quite “closed,” and protective of their lands, against excessive tourism, etc.  Quite similar to the story of indigenous peoples in North America – a common conflict in terms of way of life, beliefs, etc.

Link to Photos:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/2HTk74cZY1ZEwnKU7

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La Madrid Estate Wines

La Madrid Estate Wines was founded in 2003 by a Cuban American who was raised in Puerto Rico. They have numerous vineyards throughout Agrelo, Mendoza and make excellent wines. Recently they opened their excellent restaurant, Los Bocheros, in Las Compuertas, a 15 minute drive from our house. The grounds, which used to feature numerous bocce ball courts used for competitions, now retains one court, nestled among the gorgeous mature willow trees. After lunch, one can sit in the garden, order another glass of wine or a port and choose one of the many imported Cuban cigars from their menu. The entire experience is charming, relaxing and delicious!

One of our most favorites as of April 2024!

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Alfa Crux

Alfa Crux, formerly O. Fournier, is another bodega located about as far south in Uco Valley as you can get,. We visited for the first time just after our arrival in 2016, before the Agostino Wine Group bought the property and changed the name. Perhaps the best description of their new name, (and also O. Fournier’s original signature wine as well as theirs now) is from their website:

“Named after the brightest star in the mystical Cruz del Sur constellation, ALFA CRUX was designed in perfect harmony with the earth and its magical surroundings.” 

The winery’s architecture and setting is a sight to behold of enormous and spectacular scale in every respect. In early 2023 we were treated to a private barrel tasting and their fabulous lunch. We will return again soon without a doubt!

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Cundo Altamira

Cundo Altamira: The drive to this tiny, very special winery takes at least 90 minutes from our house (two  hours from Mendoza City) and is located at the southern most part of Uco Valley, south of Tunuyan and in “el campo” (the country) among vineyards as far as one can see with views of the mountain range. We visited recently for a tasting with friends, which included sublime appetizers made and presented with care by knowledgeable servers alongside many varied and interesting wines. We have yet to return for lunch, but it is at the top of our list for sure. Absolutely worth the trek!

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Finca Decero

Finca Decero is located in Agrelo with a sweeping view of the Andes and was one of the first wineries we visited in 2016 upon our arrival in Mendoza. The architecture and grounds are spectacular, and the food and service is superior, as well as the wines. Eight years later, the tourism experience has expanded from wine tasting lunch and tours to include birdwatching and multiple exclusive events. All still excellent and worth a visit for sure!

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Bodega Renacer

Bodega Renacer is located in Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo, about 15 minutes from our place. It started started its operations in 2001 with the construction of the winery and the purchase of a 20-hectare vineyard. Now they have 30 hectares and work with local grape producers to make their organic wines. In 2017, we held our anniversary party in their newly built restaurant and patio. Spectacular food, service and wines!

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Bodega Viamonte

Viamonte Winery is located in Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo, just a 3-minute drive from our house. For years we have watched it grow from a small winery, selling wines few were acquainted with, to a large establishment featuring multiple restaurant and tasting experiences and a capacity of 500,000 liters of stainless-steel, temperature-controlled tanks and 50,000 liters of French oak barrels. It is a popular stop on many of the Mendoza bike/wine tours because of the very accessible bike-paths now prominent throughout Lujan.

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Riccitelli Wines

Riccitelli Wines was extablished in 2009, but we didn’t begin hearing about them until 2018 or so after they began their newest project in 2015. They are located in Las Compuertas, the highest area of Lujan de Cuyo, where they have 20 hectares of ungrafted old vineyards. They also source grapes from Gualtallary, Chacayes, Vistalba, Las Compuertas and La Carrera. The dynamic new project began revaluing old vineyards of Semillon, Merlot and Malbec from vineyards that were planted in the sixties located in the Rio Negro high valley.

Relatively recently, they opened an excellent restaurant with unparalleled wine pairings. One of our favorites as of 2022.

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Claroscuro Bodega

Although Claroscuro has been around much longer than we have been in Mendoza, our first visit was in 2023. Located in Uco Valley, it was conceived of as an Art Winery, “a meeting place where different art works by local Argentine painters and artist coexist” honoring the wines they produce. The art exhibits change regularly, and the lunch is very well done with terrific pairings and a view that by itself, is worth the drive.

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