Lima

September 7-8, 2024

The following day, we walked north along the sea for an hour or so along beautifully maintained bike and walking paths reminiscent of bustling, active Central Park in New York City in the summertime. There were runners and cyclists, dogwalkers and tourists, all enjoying the temperate weather, and we took in the lovely scenery along the way, including the spring blooms of bougainvillea and tulips just beginning. Sushi was the objective (given our lack of seafood in Mendoza). 

On our last full day in Lima, we decided to explore southern Barranco, a very artsy part of the district, with fabulous graffiti and galleries everywhere, cafes and brunch spots along narrow, cobblestoned streets lined with fashionable apartment buildings overlooking the ocean, interesting parks and museums, etc. Here, we were reminded of the Village in NYC: smaller, but it has the same vibe. At one gallery, an attendant asked if we had tried Asian/Peruvian cuisine and suggested we go to a nearby 100-year-old establishment (an institution!) for lunch. So, we found our way to Gran Chifa Chung Yion. We were the only tourists in the place on a Sunday. And the experience, sitting under the dragon on the wall, people watching and eating plentiful authentic, classic old-style Chinese accompanied by chicha morada with native Peruvians—what else can you ask for in a lunch?

Then we visited the fascinating  Museo Pedro de Osma, a beautiful old mansion turned private museum featuring art and antiquities from the Peruvian Colonial Period and an excellent exhibit detailing the Incan heritage of Lima and the surrounding areas. The residence was the family’s summer house until the 1940 Lima earthquake when Pedro de Osma’s children made Barranco their year-round home.

On the way back to the hotel, we found ourselves heading down a well-maintained stairway that deposited us below the cliffs on a bridge over the highway leading to the sea. We watched the surfers, couples, groups of young people, and (yes) break-dancers on the beach and then made the long climb back up to our hotel to finish packing. Before heading to the airport, we had dinner and drinks at Ayuhuasca Bar and Resto, a fabulous famous bar/restaurant recommended by friends.

Although we experienced only a tiny slice of Lima on this trip, mostly confining our days to within walking distance of our incomparable hotel, we loved the art, gastronomic culture and urban vibe and plan to return soon to learn more!

The link to the photos and videos for days 7 and 8 is here: Lima Days 7 and 8

September 5-6, 2024

We flew the short one-hour hop back to Lima in the afternoon and arrived at our hotel, Casa Republica, in the Barranco section, one of 43 districts in the city. On the way from the airport, the enormous palisades rising from the Pacific Ocean reminded us of Santa Monica, California.  Later, we learned that cliffs further south shield Barranco from colder and more humid winds, creating a warmer and drier microclimate than many of the other districts of Lima.

The garúa, or fog that blankets the coast of Peru, is a constant in Lima, resulting in a soft “greyness” permeated by the sun that persists through most of the winter months. We found it to be a welcome change from the dry, desert conditions we are used to in Mendoza. That evening, we walked along the esplanade above the ocean at dusk, which felt mesmerizing, with the waves breaking below and the glow of the city beyond. We continued a short distance to a nearby fish place, LA 73. So fresh and so good!!

On our first full day in Lima, we walked across the street to an art space and store called Dédalo and purchased several more textiles, jewelry and other items and afterward enjoyed a coffee and a bite to eat at their charming café in back. Next door, we found the Jade Rivera art gallery, an exhibit of the famous local artist’s work, a fascinating portfolio of street graffiti, more refined paintings and eclectic pieces. The MAC, Lima (Museum of Contemporary Art), a 15-minute walk from our hotel, offered more interesting Peruvian and South American artists’ work and the opportunity to view an exhibit and meet the artist Ramiro Llona.

Needing a bit of downtime that afternoon, we took it easy and, in the evening, we took an Uber to the San Isidro district to eat at Astrid y Gaston. The restaurant is housed in a beautiful old mansion (as are many hotels, art galleries and other businesses) with interior decoration aimed at luxury, fantasy and style. The bar, for example, is constructed around two beautiful native trees under festival-like streamers cascading from the ether in the middle of the central courtyard. We were seated in an adjacent courtyard for our tasting menu of “tapas”—eight courses plus dessert, which we enjoyed with a fine bottle of Chilean wine. Dishes included scallops in a cream, dill concoction, Peking duck tacos, a shrimp cocktail taco, river shrimp with blueberry sauce and yam shavings, pork bao with fruit orange sauce, pepper ice cream with nuts and a thin cracker crust on top and a chocolate souffle of 83% chocolate with ricotta garlic ice cream. Divine!

The link to the photos and videos for days 5 and 6 is here: Lima Days 5 and 6