alsurdotblog

Nov 12

Around 10 a.m., after filling up with no problems and no line, we headed out of town to the east with Lake Argentina to our north (on the left), and again, we had more barren, brown terrain with white-capped peaks in the distance. We drove 20 kilometers to meet up with Route 40 and turned south. Then we began to climb out of the valley of Lake Argentina into snowy hills with the temperature dropping more steadily, but with spectacular views from above the valley looking north. At the top of the hill, we reached high, desolate, windswept, snowy plains, which we followed for several hours. As we turned south, the temperature 6 degrees, with mountain ranges far to the east came into view.

Finally, we turned southwest onto a “very bad dirt road” in Knox’s estimation; it was surrounded by low, dark green scrub brush, and we braved the 60-kilometer shortcut to meet up again with route 40 that goes on to cross the Chilean border. We came over a ridge and dropped down to our first, breathtaking, distant view of Torres del Paine. Dozens of mama sheep with babies scurried from the road as we passed, with no fencing in sight, and we saw many, many wildfowl, including flamingos. Nearly untouched wilderness. A right turn revealed more high plains ringed by jagged peaks and another, never-ending, brown prairie. The border crossing was easy on the Argentina side, and we crossed into Chile onto beautiful paved, marked roads, green rolling hills and farmland, the landscape much less arid. After a small wait at the Chile immigration “hut,” we continued through more rolling hills and peaks and climbed up the long, winding road to Parque Nacional de Torres del Paine. Just past the entrance to the park, we dipped down from the high ridge, descending onto a rural road encircled by imposing peaks, lots more sheep, cattle, and mountain lakes, leading to our large hotel and spa, Rio Serrano Hotel and Spa.

Our king-sized room looked directly at Torres del Paine (as do the majority of the rooms in the hotel), and the views on our first afternoon and evening were more stunning than any we have had previously (if you can believe it).

On our second day at Rio Serrano, unfortunately, we awoke to rain, which later turned to sleet and snow, so our planned horseback riding excursion was canceled. However, we welcomed the rest and lounged by the fire, took advantage of the spa, and watched the snow fall through the enormous, picture windows of the hotel.

THE PHOTO DUMP FOR THE EL CALAFATE  to TORRES DEL PAINE LEG IS HERE:

EL CALAFATE  to TORRES DEL PAINE

Serrano Hotel and Spa: A beautiful, luxury lodge (luxury for Patagonia) with comfy common areas and a bar situated around fireplaces, and large, generous rooms with great beds plus the spa.  Excellent staff!