Nov. 20, Comodoro Rivadavia to Puerto Madryn
We had a 5-hour drive ahead and so in high winds, we left around 10:30 to have some time to relax in Puerto Madryn. A divided lane highway along the coast out of town passed oil refineries and other industries, and then we came up onto two-way route 3 with rolling, green, desert, scrub hills (again, reminiscent of Texas) as the road turned inland all the way to Puerto Madryn. We were driving in the highest winds we’ve encountered yet and more bad roads added to the challenging driving. And in the midst of the ridiculous winds, we were now thinking “Oklahoma, where the wind comes rolling down the plain,” or Kansas.
After a couple of hours, we saw a wind farm in the distance. We stopped at an old gas station with a very small, sparse store in the middle of nowhere. Nothing. I didn’t even try to photograph it because of the wind, but also because its solitary, lonely, windswept remoteness wouldn’t have come through in an image.
With an hour to go, we dropped down from the prairie among huge, sandy hills and dunes to the town of Trelew, an old rail town. Then high, tan grasses interspersed with clumps of eucalyptus and other greenery appeared for a bit and disappeared, and again, on the outskirts of that small town, sadly, lots of trash was strewn everywhere along the road; then we turned due north on Route 3. Another divided highway headed toward another plateau, this one with dozens, if not hundreds, of windmills whirling. The temperature was suddenly 26 degrees Celsius.
Finally, with the wind behind us, we blew downhill into Puerto Madryn, a huge city on the New Gulf Bay that spread before us with the Atlantic Ocean beyond. We drove along the western edge of the city to avoid the traffic and arrived at our beautiful hotel in a lovely neighborhood on the south side.
LINK TO THE COMODORO RIVADAVIA to PUERTO MADRYN LEG IS HERE (including seals, described below):
Nov. 21, Peninsula Valdes Nature Preserve
The Reserve encompasses 4000 square kilometers and is made up of 98% private sheep estancias (ranches). There must be dozens because we were able to discern the boundaries by the clear fencing, and by the frequent cattle guards we passed through on the roads. We saw a few cows, but mostly sheep all over. The terrain throughout most of the reserve is the same green scrub we have seen nonstop for days throughout this part of Patagonia. However, closer to the ocean, it turns to dry yellow prairie with occasional century plants blooming.
A number of roads in the reserve are closed, but we drove out 90km from the Visitors Center on “good” dirt roads to Punto Delgada. In addition to the plentiful guanacos and Marino sheep, we passed two large salt “pans” inland, many kilometers away from any water. The largest appeared to be carved into the land with towering cliffs behind it. There were no overlooks and it was impossible to get more than a glimpse of each of them. I was lucky one photo came out.
A huge sky spread out over a flat prairie with coastal, bluish grasses and lots of sand appeared as we approached Punto Delgada and the ocean. We were lucky to spot a solo Nandu walking about before passing the point (just an Estancia with no sea view) before turning up the coast and heading to Caleta Valdez.
Driving along the coast was a bit of a disappointment for much of the way because of the big, grassy, sandy dunes high on the ocean side, preventing a good view until we reached Caleta Vadez. And, what a view once there! It is an incredible, coast with high bluffs rising out of the sea and sandy beaches mixed with dunes and black rocks jutting into the water as far as the eye can see.
The small, cash-only restaurant featured a plate of the day, a lamb burger with fries, which Knox was all over! Then we took a short, VERY WINDY walk along the shore to see the hundreds of elephant seals, many bulls with their harems lined up in groups along the beach, some sunning, some swimming, some fighting.
The rest of the shore road up to Punto Norte was closed so we headed back inland and out another road, and a huge salt flat (as opposed to pan) revealed itself in the distance to our left. At Punto Norte, there were several more cliffside paths from which to view the beaches, and we saw more elephant seals and some sea lions, as well. Unfortunately, no orcas for us today, but fortunate for the sea lions for sure! Apparently, yesterday they had a sighting, though.
Herds of guanacos were out on the sides of the road and in the fields on the way back. And, finally, I was able to get some decent footage of them, but as you’ll see, they’re still fond of turning their backs to me as I attempt to snap a picture or video.
We returned to the hotel through the main part of town. A large boardwalk lined by a park with shops, hotels, and restaurants and a bustling city center blocks from the Gulf lit by the light off of the water brings Miami to mind.
La Pasado de Madryn Hotel:
A 30-year-old, well-maintained, modest hotel with 33 rooms. Lovely, comfortable common areas with a bar and a beautiful garden and swimming pool. Pleasant staff. Great breakfast and fantastis dinner menu.
