September 1-2, 2024
We flew directly from Mendoza to Lima and then caught a plane to Cusco. You fly into the city around the mountains and then into the valley below; it is quite a landing with a breathtaking view of the valley, revealing a city of half a million people.
Our hotel, the Atoq San Blas, is a 20-room boutique hotel built into the mountainside, like most structures in Cusco. Our altitude was 3000 meters (9,800 feet), about two-thirds of the way to the very “top” of the city. After coca leaf tea to help with the altitude, we headed straight for a siesta. We began climbing the winding, narrow streets early in the evening to reach the Limbus Bar & Resto. It was relatively close to the hotel, but boy did we feel the altitude getting there! The cocktail/dinner spot was at the top of one of the city’s many hills with 180-degree views. And they served fabulous drinks for $3 US dollars apiece, plus ceviche and a fresh, grilled trout to die for!
After breakfast on our first day, we started for the center of the historic district, a steep downhill trek through cobblestone alleys, stairways and narrow roads. We stopped at several textile shops along the way and finally came to one of the significant ruins, the excavated canals of the Incas. And just beyond, we arrived at one of Cusco’s most important temple ruins, the sacred Incan Sun Palace, Qorikancha. We met a lovely woman offering a private tour, who explained the Incan construction methods, religious practices, and the structure’s fate after the Spanish arrived in the 16th century. Built by the 9th Incan Emperor, Pachakutiq, the walls were once covered in gold, and the courtyard was filled with gold statues, all stolen by the Spanish.
We next found the Artisanal Market, a bit of a disappointment full of the same sorts of products sold in Jujuy and the Atacama Desert—handmade goods, alpaca sweaters and other textiles, woven table runners, etc. Cusco, Peru, Jujuy (Argentina) and Atacama (Chile and Argentina) were all part of the Incan Empire, so, unsurprisingly, many of these markets look the same. Traditional weaving and other arts and crafts have existed for generations throughout the old Incan Empire.
On our way to lunch (climbing back up toward the hotel very slowly), we passed through the Plaza de Armas with its tourist shops and restaurants and evidence of colonial influence, with many Catholic churches and cathedrals. We also came across a few high-quality textile shops, including the Museum of Weaving. A nonprofit collaborative, the museum (Centro de Textiles Tradicionales del Cusco) includes excellent exhibits on weaving and the lifestyle of the people over generations. The adjacent store featured goods made by artisans from small towns all over Peru.
The link to the photos and videos for days 1 and 2 is here: Cusco Days 1 and 2